Guide pratique des Bijoux Camées

Practical Guide to Cameo Jewelry

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Have you ever held a cameo in your hand and felt the finely carved lines with your finger?

If so, you understand that each cameo is a true miniature work of art! Whether carved from carnelian shell or the rare sardonyx shell, mother-of-pearl, or blue agate, cameos possess an exquisite, classic beauty that has endured for generations.

Art cameo jewelry

Cameos make memorable gifts . Whether it's Mother's Day, Valentine's Day, or even a wedding anniversary, they're perfect for any occasion!

These exceptional pieces of jewelry stand out for their chic and elegance. You never own a genuine hand-carved cameo. You simply care for it for the next generation.

How do you know if a cameo is real?

One of the keys to evaluating a cameo is identifying its composition . Traditionally, the cameo is made of shell, coral, stone, or lava.

cameos shell stone

Shell cameos are typically made of conch shell and have an orange-pink background with a white or cream foreground. The carved shell can be very thin, making it more or less transparent and prone to cracking.

The cheaper molded plastic is made to resemble the shell. It is visibly thicker but results in greater strength.

cameo brooch

You can find cameos made from shells and very finely molded Bakelite plastic . If you want to ensure the authenticity of your cameo, don't hesitate to have your cameo jewelry appraised by a trusted jeweler.

The main criteria for the authenticity of a cameo

1. Inspect the transparency

Place your cameo between you and a light source and observe the back of the jewelry. If the cameo is made of a shell, you should be able to see through it and make out the outline of the design.

Transparent cameo

However, some plastic cameos are also very thin, making other methods of verification important. However, if you can't see through the cameo at all, chances are it's not made of shell.

2. Look for cracks or crazing

Take a closer look at the surface. If it's made of shell, you should be able to see fine cracks or crazing when you inspect the cameo with a light source.

3. Zoom in on the sculpture

Next, inspect your cameo shell under a magnifying glass. You should be able to see very fine marks or indentations from carving tools , indicating that the piece is carved from the shell. Plastic has a more uniform and smoother appearance.

4. Do a quick Google search

Many plastic cameos have the exact same face . Hand-carved shell cameos are much more varied. Search "plastic cameo" on Google images and see if you find the same pattern and characteristics as the jewelry in question.

Cameos Google search

Cheap, mass-produced cameos from the 1940s are sometimes carved from shells but set in brass . These are technically "real" cameos because they are made from a shell.

They are often of better quality than plastic cameos, but are still considered costume jewelry and have less value than a genuine antique cameo.

5. Look for a trademark

If you think you have a shell cameo, check the setting to see if there is a quality mark indicating the item's gold content. If the cameo jewelry has a gold hallmark , it is not costume jewelry.

However, an antique cameo set in gold is not necessarily marked. The absence of a mark does not necessarily mean it is costume jewelry. To be sure, have your setting tested to verify its gold content .

A few additional details to identify a genuine cameo

  • Straight-nosed portrait cameos are typical of the Victorian era.
  • Portraits that feature a strong, "Roman" nose were made before the 1860s.
  • Mythological scenes generally date from the 18th century to the early 20th century.
  • A portrait with a nice button nose usually indicates a more recent cameo, made in the 21st century. More modern facial features usually mean the cameo is not authentic.

Who is the woman in a cameo?

The most common motif depicted on a cameo is a portrait of a young, beautiful woman. What, then, is the significance of the cameo? This practice originates from the ancient Greek habit of depicting female profiles on cameos.

These could have had a real existence, but it was common to depict a goddess, a nymph or other known mythological heroines .

Female cameos

Later, the Romans preserved and democratized this custom, despite the progressive loss of the sacred value of the portrait.

What is the meaning of offering a cameo?

In ancient Greece and Rome, cameo jewelry was worn by women to seduce or display images of gods, goddesses, or mythological heroes.

Today, offering a cameo jewel is more simply a sign of attachment and affection .

  • A cameo ring traditionally implies a romantic commitment
  • A cameo necklace or bracelet is a testament to friendship or can be given to a family member.
This gift more generally expresses the wish to strengthen the bonds which unite the person who gives and the person who receives.

What is the value of a cameo?

Whether you want to value your piece on a brooch, necklace, or pendant, there are many ways to determine the price of an antique cameo .

Recommended Reading: Do Jewelry Appreciate in Value?

Affordable cameos are carved from shells and can be found at affordable prices. Cameos carved from certain gemstones sometimes sell at auction for several thousand euros!

The materials

The most beautiful and expensive cameo jewelry is made from semi-precious materials and stones. Agate is certainly the most popular material because it is difficult to carve and requires great skill to produce. The result, however, is breathtaking !

Agate cameos

Stone cameos last longer than less expensive shell or plastic cameos. A simple test is to place a hot needle against the cameo . If it melts, it was made of plastic. If not, it is probably genuine.

Age

Like many collectibles, a cameo's rarity is a more important factor in its value than its age . For example, although the Roman Empire predates the Renaissance , Renaissance cameos are considered more valuable because there were far fewer of them at that time.

The metal used can also give an indication of the date of manufacture. If the setting is a copper and zinc alloy resembling gold, it was probably made between the early 18th and mid-19th centuries.

Gold electroplating was not patented until 1840, so all cameos that are plated were carved after that date.

The motive

When examining your cameo carving, it is best to hold it up to a light to ensure there are no major cracks .

Those with three or four layers of color and an image comprising several subjects are particularly valuable. In addition, colored stones such as opal, lapis, and emerald are rare, and therefore even more expensive.

The frame

The setting is a good indicator of age and value. It will vary depending on the era in which it was produced . For example, Victorian cameos often have simple, narrow settings, unlike the beaded and jeweled versions that followed decades later.

How to get a cameo appraised?

Are you about to purchase a cameo piece of jewelry? Or do you have an antique cameo to sell? It's important that you fully assess the piece's value.

Authentic cameo replicas have been around for centuries! It's best to ask the seller for a written guarantee before purchasing , if applicable. Here are some other tips for buying antique cameo jewelry:

  • Compare the room temperature with the temperature of the jewelry . Real stones stay cool, but plastic heats up quickly due to room temperature and hand contact.
  • A few micro-cracks are acceptable, but breaks will hurt the resale value of your collectible.
  • The finer the detail of the pattern , the higher its value.
  • A collection of a specific type of cameo can sell for more than a single cameo.
  • When in doubt, always consult several experts to get several opinions . Where to get a cameo appraised? Visit a jewelry store to benefit from the expertise of a professional.

How to clean and maintain a cameo?

Antique cameo jewelry is prone to discoloration over time. While hard stones are more durable, shells are prone to cracking and dryness.

Cleaning antique cameo jewelry is important to preserve its value , beauty, and extend its lifespan. Fortunately, caring for cameo jewelry is fairly easy.

Cleaning your cameo

To clean your cameos, simply wash them in warm, soapy water . Avoid using detergents or abrasive cleaners, and wipe with a soft cloth.

If any impurities remain, gently scrub with a soft-bristled toothbrush. You can also use a cotton swab and a wooden toothpick.

Avoid using ultrasonic jewelry cleaners, as these can alter the color of your piece.

Storing and caring for a cameo jewel

Protect your cameos with a soft cloth, away from other jewelry or objects that might scratch them. Wipe off dust frequently.

Since they are prone to cracking, it is recommended to oil them twice a year . Choose an odorless and colorless mineral oil. Apply it to your cameo using your finger. Be sure to wipe it dry after cleaning.

How to wear a cameo?

Wondering how to wear a cameo brooch ? Whether around your neck, on your finger, or on clothing, there are many ways to wear cameo jewelry. Here's what to wear with a cameo :

A cameo pendant

Ideal for everyday wear as well as for a chic evening, the cameo pendant is an excellent idea for highlighting a small cardigan, a dress or a neckline.

Wearing a cameo on a ring

Pairing a cameo with a ring may seem surprising. However, even if it's not the traditional place to wear it, the effect is stunning!

The possibilities offered by a cameo ring are endless. You can play with the number, size, and style to create unique effects.

Cameo ring Pairing a cameo with a locket

A romantic symbol , the medallion has almost become synonymous with the cameo due to its close proximity to the latter. It is ideal for preserving a precious object or a love note.

Joining a cameo to a necklace

The cameo necklace is certainly one of the most beautiful ways to wear it. Whether with a shirt, a dress, or as a complement to other fashion accessories, it allows for the creation of sophisticated and personal styles .

Cameo necklace

Wear the cameo as an earring

Often part of a set, cameo earrings are the perfect partner to enhance a gala outfit . They are suitable for the wildest of boldness and for major events. As such, they are ideal as wedding jewelry .

cameo earring

Wearing a cameo brooch

The brooch has reinvented itself in recent years to become a creative accessory par excellence . This piece of jewelry is a true invitation to freedom and the creation of inimitable styles. The cameo brooch offers infinite possibilities and contemporary creations make it a true work of art.

Cameo brooch

Cameo jewelry is a timeless gem that is flourishing once again in the jewelry world. It benefits from a great diversity and the genius of innovative contemporary designers who dare to revisit their most classic versions.

Recommended reading: Why buy antique jewelry made from noble materials?

Modern cameo jewelry makes for beautiful pieces of jewelry. Whether in the form of bracelets, necklaces, earrings, brooches, or pendants, these unique accessories are suitable for any era and style!


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